Anycubic Prusa I3 3D Printer LCD Screen
Reviews Anycubic Prusa I3 3D Printer
If purchased directly from the seller Anycubic Prusa 3D Printer, there is good support in English (easy to contact seller). Otherwise, there are also various forums and Facebook groups dealing with so-called Anycubic Prusa I3 3D Printer cloning. Or as a last chance to post the error message in the complete here.
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| Anycubic Prusa I3 3D Printer |
The Electronics Anycubic Prusa I3 3D Printer LCD Screen makes a good impression, soldered clean all connections labeled legibly, all cables fit. With the pre-assembled extruder you should check whether the threaded pipe goes even completely to the nozzle in the heating block, otherwise it licks later at the pressure. What you can use - even later for the nozzle change - is a 6mm ring key and an adjustable key 200mm. The switch for the Z-stop is somewhat shaky, but can easily be stabilized with a small plastic strip for guidance.
Anycubic 3D Printer Specifications
Parameters
- Molding Technology: Fused Deposition Modeling (FDM)
- Layer Resolution: 0.1 ~ 0.3mm
- Construction volume: 200mm * 200mm * 160mm
- Positioning accuracy: 0,012 mm (X / Y-axis), 0.02 mm (Z- axis)
- Standard nozzle diameter: 0.4 mm (individual 0.3 / 0.5 / 0.8 mm)
- Recommended filament: PLA (1.75 mm diameter)
- Framework: laser cut 8mm thick acrylic
- Pressure platform: aluminum surface (220 * 220 mm ) with hot bed under
- Standard extruder: MK8 single extruder
- Motors: 42mm stepper motor, angular distance 1.8 degrees
- Working voltage: 110-240V input, 12V output
- Port: USB, SD card
Hot bed temperature: the top temperature ~ 110 ° C
Main Features Anycubic Prusa I3 3D Printer:
- LCD screen: user-friendly design for easy control.
- A rigid and robust frame is achieved by using 8mm thick acrylic guaranteed.
- A single button for quick and easy navigation.
- Quality stepping motor with constant rotation, accurate positioning even at the maximum speed.
- Holes on frame for custom modification (for 12864 LCD screen, and Ramps1.4 + 2560)
- All Cubic I3 has smaller space requirements compared to the machine with the same duty cycle.
- user-friendly manuals for DIY instructions.
- 1 full set of Anycybic I3 DIY parts
- 1 set of mounting tools + 1 * filament (Default color: black)
- 1 * filament / filament Rack
A true plus is Anycubic Prusa I3 3D Printer customer service. Exemplary. Defective parts - with me it also caught the power switch, did not want to turn off - are sent without large spring reading. It takes a few days, but it can be adjusted. Also the STLs of the printed parts were sent, equal to the currently improved versions. Nice contact, great service, so the fun.
Anycubic Prusa I3 3D Printer Best Printers - The commissioning of the 3D Printer was easily calibrated, filament inserted and since then the printer prints. I am very satisfied with the device, it does what it should. Even with longer loads, electronics and motors are just lukewarm, the sound development is quite comfortable for a home environment with 47-55 decibels, you can have a good run beside you. The quality of the prints is good.
Also the single extruder - I had initially beloved with a DualExtruder - presents itself as an advantage. Multicolor printing is nice, but the classic system with two nozzles and two engines on the car is more of a discontinued model, the additional weight brakes the printing speed. Currently it is apparently heading towards E3D Hotend with dual feed via Bowden. The connections Anycubic Prusa are already available on the board, so you could retrofit if necessary.
As firmware runs on Anycubic Prusa I3 3D Printer a adapted Marlin 1.0. As a value-added function it offers the possibility to prepare prints so that they can be interrupted and resumed later, for example to counteract a power failure. You can find the material on Youtube. I have not used the function so far, but there are already situations where this could be quite handy. On the SD card, there is a firmware in the source, the required Arduino libraries are. However, it is a basic version, the resume of interrupted prints is not included.
The firmware 3D Printers in the source is interesting, for example, if you want to upgrade an automatic Z-calibration, the version is already supported. Or if you want to switch to the current Marlin version, the data in the configuration files are helpful. And in any case, as a factory fallback, a hex file is included. As a software for Anycubic Prusa I3 3D Printer, Cura is recommended, can also be found on the SD card. I still use the older Cura versions for current requirements, the current - 2.3 - is not ideal for the beginning and also makes difficulties with USB.
Configure The Firmware On Anycubic Prusa I3 3D Printer
Download the Arduino IDE from www.arduino.cc.
This requires Version 0023. Run this on your computer; depending on the operating system you’re using, it may automatically install drivers the first time you plug in the RAMPS electronics to your computer. If it doesn’t, follow the onscreen instructions to install the driver.
Download the Marlin firmware from https://github.com/ErikZalm/Marlin.
You can select the Download Zip button on the right side of the screen.
After download, extract the contents of the Zip file.
Inside will be the main Marlin firmware directory.
Begin editing the Marlin firmware for RAMPS and Prusa i3.This file holds most of the key settings for the mechanical arrangement and electronics type.
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